I shall begin with my own home theater system located in my bedroom.
Then the outdated picture of the gaming systems, still (mostly) relevant:
For size reference, that is a 55" OLED TV, and I also now have a gaming HTPC in the mix.
--- System Overview ---
Speakers consist of:
- The Elusive 1099 (LCR)
- Volt-10 LX (Rear Sides)
- Volt-6 (Rear Back)
- 4x KEF HTS3001 Coaxials for Atmos (Top Front and Top Rear)
- Dual Othorns with 21" B&C 21SW152-4 drivers (LFE)
- Dual 8 cubic ft. dual opposed enclosures with 18" Dayton RSS460HO drivers. (LFE)
- Dual JBL 2242's not currently connected -
- Marantz Pre-Pro AV7703 (7.1.4 channel surround sound.)
- Behringer DCX2496 x 2 (For LCR and LFE channels)
- Behringer DEQ2496 (Now used for the Volt-10 LX side surrounds.)
- Crest Audio CC4000 (Left and Right 1099)
- Crest Audio CC2800 (Center 1099)
- Behringer iNuke NU4-6000 (Volt-10 LX and Volt-6 for the rear channels.)
- Behringer iNuke NU4-6000 (KEF HTS3001 Coaxials for Atmos)
- QSC PLX2502 and QSX PLX2402 (One per Othorn)
- Peavey IPR2 5000 (Quad Dayton 18" subwoofers.)
- LG 55EG9100 OLED HDTV - 1080P
- DVDO VP30
- IOGEAR 8x1 HDMI switch
- Roland M-1000 Digital Line Mixer
- Tripp-Lite 30amp rack mount power distribution center.
- XRGB-Mini Framemeister
- gscartsw v3.4
Gaming systems:
- Nintendo AV Famicom (RGB modded)
- Super Nintendo Entertainment System (Native RGB connection)
- Nintendo 64 (UltraHDMI modded)
- Nintendo GameCube (Component cable connection.)
- Nintendo Wii U (HDMI)
- Sega Genesis with Sega CD (Native RGB connection)
- Sega Saturn (Native RGB connection)
- Sega Dreamcast (Native RGB/VGA connection via the Toro box)
- Sony Playstation 2 (Component connection)
- Sony Playstation 3 (HDMI)
- Sony Playstation 4 (HDMI)
- Xbox (Component connection)
- Xbox 360 (HDMI)
- Xbox One (HDMI)
- Oldschool Windows 95 / DOS gaming PC - 75MHz Intel Pentium with 16MB of RAM. Soundblaster AWE32 (CT3980) with S/PDIF optical connection for midi output to Roland M-1000 and analog out for digital sounds into Roland M-1000. Mixed into digital signal. Voodoo 3DFX card. - Currently retired due to keyboard controller issues.
- Navepoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure - 24" outside depth.
- Roland MT-32 - For DOS games with MT-32 support.
- Roland SoundCanvas SC-88 - For DOS games and General Midi usage.
- Yamaha MU-80 - General Midi usage.
Well howdy howdy folks, it's been a while since I've given any updates on my own system, and hopefully this will inspire anyone else to show off their system! My system has gone through several updates since the date of the OP. Honestly the journey is not over yet. More planned upgrades and changes are in the works, even with my slow ass.
Let's start with an updated system overview!
--- System Overview ---
Speakers consist of:
- The Elusive 1099 (LCR)
- Volt-10 LX (Rear Sides and Rear Backs)
- Volt-6 (Top Front and Top Rear Overhead for Dolby Atmos and DTS:X)
- Dual Othorns with 21" B&C 21SW152-4 drivers (LFE) [28Hz and Up]
- Dual 8FT³ dual opposed enclosures with 18" Dayton RSS460HO drivers. (LFE) [32Hz and Below]
- Dual 11FT³. dual opposed enclosures with 21" Incriminator Audio Judge drivers. (LFE) [32Hz and Below]
- 8FT³ enclosure with two 18" Stereo Integrity HT-18 V2 subwoofers for nearfield. (LFE) [32Hz and Below]
- AudioControl Maestro X7 (7.1.4 channel surround sound currently)
- Behringer DCX2496 Digital Crossover for the Subwoofer DSP management needs.
- Crest Audio CC4000 (Left and Right 1099)
- Crest Audio CC2800 (Center 1099 and Rear Nearfield Dual 18" Subwoofers.)
- SpeakerPower SP2-12000 - (Powering the Quad 21" Incriminator Audio Judge Subwoofers.
- Crown Audio DCi 8|600N - (Powering the four bed layer surrounds and four overhead Atmos surrounds)
- Crown Audio DCi 4|2400N - (Bridged Mode to deliver 4200 Watts per Othorn.)
- Peavey IPR2 5000 (Quad Dayton 18" subwoofers.)
The next big project is relocating the audio rack from where it sits now into a space within my closet. There is a bit of a 'cavity' between that closet and the room my computer equipment is in. That allows some duct work to go from the first floor into the attic. This is a two-story house. Basically I can just open up the wall, like I'm adding a door, but instead of a door there it'll be a nice full sized 48U enclosed audio rack.
I wanted to toy with the idea of stuffing an enclosed server rack, but that unfortunately won't fit due to the limited depth. So I can't take my servers and move them there too, not without getting ones that don't go as deep anyway. The networking equipment wouldn't be a problem... So I might have to do some thinking here.
Anyway, I did model a few things up in Blender to get an idea of this will fit, and so far so good. I'll post more about that later.
Another upgrade I'm doing is I'm going to be adding a couple of 24" subwoofers into the system. There's a Canadian company making some really nice drivers that do offer them to the DIY community called Harbottle Audio, and they make some really nice drivers. So these will either be replacing my nearfield rear subwoofers or be adding to the back of my room in place of my shelves holding up the rear back surround speakers.
Without any further ado, here are the pictures! (Please note, some are old pictures still - Also you can click them for a larger view.)
Here is the view of the existing 18U audio rack, it's still a work in progress, but I will likely not complete this as I listed the plans to change things over above (Also I had to swap a couple of amps around that are not fully pictured here):
Full view of the front, this is an older picture but you get the idea:
The nearfield 18" subwoofers behind the sofa:
The front overhead Atmos... older picture:
The rear overhead Atmos along with my DIY acoustic panels with my characters on them:
The rear back surrounds along with my DIY acoustic panels with my characters on them:
Rear Side Left Surround, Games, Movies, and Doggo:
Rear Side Right Surround and game consoles:
Rear Side Right Surround and game consoles 2:
That's it for now! Let's see some of y'alls stuff now!









